Off the northern Mozambique mainland, Medjumbe Island is a sublimely remote, ‘wish you were here’ escape. You may spot a green turtle or a leopard shark. Or simply doze off in a hammock
Medjumbe Island is a diminutive gem in the remote Quirimbas Archipelago
Words and photographs Tess Paterson
We’ve flown into Anantara Medjumbe Island Resort on a properly tiny plane. Our cargo is a mountain of much needed groceries and a hustle of ebullient journos. As we touch down, the afternoon is nudging towards sunset; the sea’s a burnished silver disc. A beaming man called Tome’s proffering fruity cocktails. All about us is a lovely slide towards the surreal.
More atoll than island, this private getaway is just one kilometre long and a svelte 300 metres wide. For two full days we get to call Medjumbe home, disconnected from load-shedding and fake news and the crazy shakes of city living. It’s a postcard incarnate – pale sand meets a turquoise ocean and distant dhows speckle the horizon. All is pared down to shades of aqua blue.
Each of the 12 airy villas has its own private plunge pool; afternoon naps are a fan-cooled flop on crisp white linen. At dusk, armies of ghost crabs trundle sideways across the beach as solar lanterns begin to glow. The caipirinhas – pale and frosty, are very, very delicious.
My plan is some long-term lolling in that warm, gin-clear water. For the must-be-busies, stand up paddling’s on offer, as is snorkeling, kayaking and diving. As activities’ manager Fernando Costa enthuses, this truly is Scuba nirvana, with 12 superb sites in the area. “A real highlight is the coral bank of Neptune’s Nursery, which attracts game fish, fusiliers, blue spotted stingrays and nudibranchs.” Intermediate divers flock to Sambi Sambi with its 10 – 40m sloping wall frequented by leopard sharks and turtles. But for the crazy few, it’s all about the Edge of Reason, where the channel’s edge falls away to the ocean floor. “It’s the most awesome of all, giving advanced divers a feeling of flight as they peer over the 800m drop.”
This is my kind of Survivor, surrounded by the natural world while cosseted in high thread-count linen
If, like me, you’re more of a hammock-dangler, don’t miss an outing to the nearby Quissanga Island. The last word in luxe, this uninhabited islet is the setting for a private al fresco braai. Beneath the swaying palms we while away a perfect afternoon, punctuated by regular ocean dips and a spot of blissful snoozing. Quissanga is also the location for star-bed sleep-outs. Under an inky sky, you get to spend the night in a four-poster bed – lulled to sleep by the waves and sighing palms. This is my kind of Survivor – surrounded by the natural world while cosseted in high thread-count linen.
Untold spoiling aside, this timeless dot in the ocean is part of a vital marine ecosystem. Stretching for some 200km along the coastline, the Quirimbas has richly diverse habitats, from mangroves and coral reefs to rocky shores. It’s an important nursery area for the endangered humpback dolphin, as well as bottlenose dolphins and humpback whales. A month after our visit, Medjumbe mailed to say they’d spotted five new green turtle nests. The hatchlings should emerge in spring.
Bird lovers will find themselves in nirvana proper. Long accustomed to Joburg’s grey Hadedas, it’s a treat to see their doppelgangers – the African Sacred Ibis, perfectly etched in sartorial black and white. There are common sandpipers and little terns, water thick-knees and stately fish eagles. For a peaceful hour we watch a pair of dimorphic egrets dipping their beaks into the ocean in elegant, unhurried strokes.
The Medjumbe team is attentive and friendly, commuting from their homes on Ibo, Matemo, Maconia, Mucojo and Pemba – regions hard hit by Cyclone Kenneth. In stark contrast, all is thoroughly relaxed. We get to snorkel, jog the island’s slender perimeter, eat superb food and hang out in the still, shallow bay at dusk. Far too soon the peaceful solitude comes to an end. We’re back on the plane, winging towards the mainland city of Pemba.
In the market at Pemba there’s a clash of capulanas, dried fish, standing fans, maize meal
The Avani Pemba Beach Hotel is a rust-coloured building with a rim-flow pool that faces the ocean – the start and end point for many Quirimbas adventures. Hanging here like Dude in The Big Lebowski is certainly an enticing option, but we have a whole day to explore and are keen to see something of Pemba. A guide agrees to give us a whistle-stop tour with a short drive down the coast.
Pemba’s a humid jumble, a mix of genteelly crumbling buildings and pavement stalls rimmed by a vast, sweeping bay. In the vibrant market there’s a clash of capulanas, dried fish, standing fans, maize meal. Everywhere women carry drums of water, a ceaseless task in the pounding heat.
After an hour’s coastal meander, we arrive at a local restaurant – a simple thatched boma right on the beach. We’d pictured some padkos, perhaps a wilted sarmie wrapped in paper, but there’s a full-on seafood braai on the go. Our guide explains that we’re lucky the spot’s open – in rural Moz you take your chances. It turns into one of those rare, delightful afternoons – crayfish on the fire, ocean dips and relaxed, friendly folk. What a way to end our trip.
What to do in Pemba: “I would hire a local taxi from the airport and go down to Pakeet village to see the local markets. Or have a lunch at one of the amazing restaurants at Wimbe Beach.” Kevin Record, owner of Ibo Island Lodge in the Quirimbas.
Island hopping: “Miti Miwire Lodge on Ibo offers dhow safaris to Matemo Island, either for the day or to stay over. For a truly authentic experience, try Mussa’s Place on Quirimba Island.” Eliseu Rodrigo, expert tour guide.
Getting there: We flew non-stop from Joburg to Pemba on Airlink. LAM also has flights but not all are direct. From Pemba it’s a charter flight to Medjumbe (or several other superb islands) with jaw-dropping aerial views.
2 comments
Simply stunning!
Thanks Lee-Anne!